Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Rules For Scrambling the Opponents' Count Signals

This is a reprint of a post from twelve years ago. The discussion in this week's deal of whether to lead the seven or deuce from your hand with J72 reminded me of it.

In the ensuing discussion, I will use the name 'Fred' to refer to the defender from whom you wish to conceal information. I will use the name 'Ethel' to refer to his partner, that is, the defender whose holding you are trying to obscure. Sometimes you know ahead of time which defender is which; sometimes you don't. Sometimes Fred may be, for example, whichever defender holds the ace.

Rule 1 - If you wish to represent a particular holding for Ethel, signal as if you held that holding.

Most players know this rule when it comes to attitude signals. Declarer should play high to encourage and low to discourage (or the opposite if the opponents signal upside down). Many players do not know, however, that the rule works with count signals also.


NORTH
♣ Q J 10 9


SOUTH
♣ 7 6 2


Fred leads the king of clubs against a heart contract; Ethel plays the four. If Ethel has four-three doubleton, you want Fred to think that it is possible she has three clubs. So you signal as if you had three clubs (which, by sheer coincidence, you do). Since the opponents play standard count, you play low. ("Low" means any card lower than the card Ethel played. If you have choices, you should choose among them at random.)

Suppose, however, you want Fred to continue clubs. Perhaps you know--for whatever reason--that Ethel has three clubs (presumably eight-five-four), and you want Fred to waste a tempo cashing his club ace. You want to represent a doubleton in Ethel's hand, so you signal as if you had a doubleton. Since the opponents play standard count, you play high. Any card higher than Ethel's will do. By concealing the deuce, you leave open the possiblity that Ethel has four-deuce.

Rule 1 is fine if you have a specific objective in mind. But what if you don't? What if you just want to play the card that has the greatest chance of scrambling the opponents' signals? In that case, you need Rules 2 and 3.

Rule 2 - With three or more cards, play your lowest or second lowest card, choosing whichever is closest to middle in rank. If the opponents signal upside down, choose similarly between your highest or second highest spot card. 

For example,


NORTH
♣ K Q J 10


SOUTH
♣ 8 5 2


Which card should you lead toward dummy to scramble Ethel's count signal? Assuming standard signals, your choice is between the deuce and the five. The five, being a middle-ranking card, will work more often. Playing the deuce is right only if Ethel has four-three doubleton, since it leaves open the possibility that she has eight-five-four. Playing the five is right anytime Ethel has three clubs, since it leaves open the possibility she has a doubleton.

Note that if dummy had the nine of clubs instead of the ten, the five would work in even more cases. It would work against against any three-card holding and against any even holding that includes the ten (provided Ethel is unwilling to signal with the ten), since it leaves open the possibility she has ten-eight third.


NORTH
♣ K Q J 10


SOUTH
♣ 9 8 4


Now the choice is between the four and the eight. Again, the middle-ranking card, the four, is the percentage play. The eight will create an ambiguity only if Ethel has seven-six-five. The four will create an ambiguity any time Ethel has an even number.

Rule 3 - With a doubleton, give correct count with one exception: If Ethel is apt to have a card she doesn't want to part with, give false count. 

Why should you usually signal an even number with a doubleton? Because, in general, it is easier to scramble Ethel's odd signal than it is to scramble her even signal. To scramble her odd signal, all you need to do is to conceal one card lower than the card she plays (or higher if they signal upside down). To scramble her even signal, you must conceal two cards higher than the card she plays (or lower if they signal upside down).



NORTH
♣ K Q J 10


SOUTH
♣ 9 2


Signal as the opponents would. Play the nine if the opponents play standard signals; play the deuce if they play upside down. You hope that Ethel has an odd number of clubs, in which case playing the proper card will make it possible that she has a doubleton. It is impossible to create an ambiguity when Ethel has an even number of clubs.


NORTH
♥ K Q 9 8 3


SOUTH
♥ 7 2


In this layout, there are two cards outstanding that Ethel might well choose not to signal with: the jack and the ten. Ethel is apt to have one or the other of them, so the exception applies, and you should give false count.

Why does this situation create an exception? Because there are now many three-card holdings from which Ethel's play is automatically ambiguous:

♥ J 6 5
♥ J 6 4
♥ 10 6 5
♥ 10 6 4

Ethel will play low from any of these holdings, but she will also play low from:

♥ J 5
♥ J 4
♥ 10 5
♥ 10 4

(Actually, it doesn't matter whether she will play low from these doubletons or not. All that matters is that, from Fred's point of view, she might play low.)

Normally, against standard carders, you want to retain the deuce when you hold a doubleton. That way, if Ethel plays low from three, it will be possible she holds a doubleton. But if Ethel holds the jack or ten, you don't need to do that. It is already possible that she holds a doubleton. Her signal from three cards is already ambiguous without your having to do anything.

Therefore, you need to shift your attention to scrambling her signal when she holds an even number. And, as we have seen, the way to do that is signal an odd number. If Ethel plays her highest spot card from:

♥ J 6
♥ J 5
♥ J 4
♥ 10 6
♥ 10 5
♥ 10 4
♥ J 6 5 4
♥ 10 6 5 4

then retaining the seven leaves open the possibility that she has three. (If they signal upside down and she plays the lowest spot card, then retaining the deuce leaves open that possibility.)

One addendum: Declarer's choice of equals rarely matters. So, whatever card the above rules instruct you to play, you are free to play any other card of equal rank. Randomizing among equals will help to keep Fred from  exploiting these rules to divine your holding.

Am I being too cautious in saying "rarely" instead of "never"? No. I can't think of a case where declarer's choice among equals matters for an even-odd ambiguity. But it can certainly matter for a two-or-four ambiguity:




NORTH
♣ K Q J 3


SOUTH
♣ 9 8 2



You lead the king from dummy, and East plays the seven, presumably from seven doubleton. By Rule 1, if you want to represent three cards in East's hand, you should play low; if you want to represent four cards (so that you might have a singleton), you should play high. But, if you play high, you must play the eight. The nine will not work, since East would play the eight from eight-seven fourth. This falls under the heading of "playing the card you're known to hold."

So there you have it. A simple set of guidelines for scrambling the opponents' count signals. What's particularly nice about these rules is that the opportunity to apply them typically comes up several times per session. So, if you didn't know these rules already, your expected per session score has just gone up perhaps a couple of matchpoints.

Sunday, January 15, 2023

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - January 13 - Board 5

Board 5
Our side vulnerable

♠ K J 8 2  ♥ A Q 8  ♦ J 7 2  ♣ A K Q  

Two passes to me. I have 20 HCP and a balanced hand, so I open with 2NT, showing 20 to 21. Partner raises to 3NT. West leads the club four.


NORTH
Robot
♠ Q 3
♥ 10 9 6
♦ K Q 9 8 6
♣ 7 5 2






SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K J 8 2
♥ A Q 8
♦ J 7 2
♣ A K Q


West North East South
Robot Robot Robot Phillip

Pass Pass 2 NT
Pass 3 NT (All pass)

If the opponents can hold up twice in diamonds, they may be able to prevent me from running the diamond suit. I can reach dummy with the spade queen if the ace is on my left.  But if it's on my right, I can be held to two diamonds, two spades, and three clubs. If that's the case, I'll need to take two heart tricks to make this.

I play a low club from dummy, and East plays the nine. Which card should I win this trick with? East's nine could be from the nine alone, from ten-nine, or from jack-ten-nine. If it's from the nine alone and I win with the king, East will know I have the queen. If I didn't, his partner would have queen-jack-ten and would have led the queen. If I win with the queen, there is a variety of holdings his partner could have. So winning with the queen creates the most ambiguity from East's perspective.

How about from West's perspective? If West has the jack, he will know I have ace-king-queen whichever card I win with. So it looks right to win with the queen, concealing my holding from East.

I win with the queen. How should I start diamonds? The normal play is to lead low, catering to a stiff ace on my left. The problem with that approach is that, if I win the first diamond trick in dummy, I won't know yet whether diamonds are running. If I play jack of diamonds, then a diamond to dummy and it holds, I know there is a 50% chance this is the last time I will be in dummy, and I can plan the play accordingly.

How should I continue if I win the second diamond in dummy? If the spade ace is on my left, I want to continue diamonds. If it's on my right, I want to take a heart finesse, hoping to score two diamonds, two spades, three clubs, and two hearts. The spade ace and heart king are equally likely to be onside, but the heart finesse offers an additional advantage: Even if it loses, I may be able to endplay someone into leading hearts for me, enabling me to finesse against the jack. So the heart finesse offers my best chance to make the contract.

If I play a low diamond now and win the first diamond in dummy, my best continuation is less clear. Continuing diamonds is right if the spade ace is onside or if the diamond ace is doubleton. Still, the heart finesse offers excellent chances. It works if whichever honor I decide to finesse is onside or if I can maneuver an endplay. I suspect it's still right to take the heart finesse. And if I'm going to take the heart finesse however I play diamonds, it must be right to take my best play in the diamond suit and lead a low one now.

Which low card should I lead? If someone has ace third, his partner will echo to show a doubleton. I want to make it appear he is playing his lowest card from three. If West has ace third and I return to my hand for the second diamond play, he will have to make his decision before seeing his partner's second card. So if it appears East has three diamond, West may decide to win the second diamond. Is that possible for East's echo to be ambiguous? Yes. If his doubleton is headed by the five or four, then when he echoes, it will be possible he is playing low from J75 (or J74)--assuming, that is, that I haven't given the show away by playing the seven myself. So I must lead the deuce. Leading the seven would be an error.

I lead the diamond deuce. West plays the four. I play the king from dummy, and West follows with the three. Each opponent has played his lowest diamond. That's encouraging. It means no one has two small. If the suit splits three-two, it's likely that the hand with the doubleton didn't echo because he has the ace.

If I'm wrong about the position and diamonds aren't coming home, this could be the last time I'm in dummy. So it's probably a good idea to follow through with my plan of using this entry to take a heart finesse. If my only goal is to develop a second heart trick, it makes no difference whether I lead the ten and ride it or whether I lead to the queen. The jack and the king are equally likely to be onside. But if I lead to the queen, there is some chance I could wind up with eleven tricks: four diamonds, three clubs, two spades, and two hearts. If I ride the ten, I will probably lose to one honor or the other, and making five will no longer be possible.

I lead the heart ten, East plays the five, and I play the queen, losing to the king. West now shifts to the four of spades. If he has the ace, this was a very good play. It deprives me of my dummy entry prematurely. Now my only chance at running the diamond suit is finding the ace doubleton.

There is no reason to play the queen. If I play low, East may take the ace. If he doesn't, he must play the ten or nine, and my eight may come into play later. I play low, East plays the nine, and I win with the jack.

I have to lead the diamond jack to unblock the suit. If West plays the ten, I can overtake. If East then takes the ace, I'm in good shape. If not, I'm in dummy to finesse against the heart jack.

What will I do if West doesn't play the ten and the jack holds the trick? I can't run diamonds, and I can't take the heart finesse. I'll have only eight tricks after driving the spade ace. But I may be able to find a ninth in the end position.

I lead the diamond jack. West takes the ace. Yay! It appears I was right about the diamond suit. East played low from three small and West had ace doubleton. West cashes the ace of spades, and I have the rest. Making four.


NORTH
Robot
♠ Q 3
♥ 10 9 6
♦ K Q 9 8 6
♣ 7 5 2


WEST
Robot
♠ A 10 7 4
♥ K 4 2
♦ A 5 4
♣ J 6 4


EAST
Robot
♠ 9 6 5
♥ J 7 5 3
♦ 10 3
♣ 10 9 8 3


SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K J 8 2
♥ A Q 8
♦ J 7 2
♣ A K Q

Plus 630 is worth 64%.

I was wrong about the diamond suit after all. East failed to give count. Perhaps he thought he shouldn't squander the ten, but it's hard to see how that could matter. And failing to give count cost. It tricked his partner into winning the second diamond.

Had West ducked my diamond jack, I would then lead a spade. West must take his ace, else I'm in dummy for my heart finesse. He will then cash the diamond ace and exit with a club. I will take my two club tricks, reaching this position:


NORTH
Robot
♠ --
♥ 9 6
♦ K 9
♣ --


WEST
Robot
♠ 10 7
♥ 4 2
♦ --
♣ --


EAST
Robot
♠ 6
♥ J 7
♦ --
♣ 10

SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K 8
♥ A 8
♦ --
♣ --

This was the potential end position I alluded to above. I cash the spade king, hoping the ten drops. When it doesn't, I lead a spade. If West wins and doesn't hold the last club, I'm home. If East wins and doesn't hold the last club, he must lead a heart, and I can take the finesse.

I make my contract on that line, but I lose the overtrick. In retrospect, maybe taking the heart finesse when I was in dummy was an error. It's the right play at IMPs, because it gives me my best shot at nine tricks. But it's not so clear at matchpoints. As the cards lie, it loses the overtrick against best defense. It could also lose overtricks on a variety of other layouts, even when the finesse wins.

Suppose, for example, the finesse wins and I lead another diamond. It turns out the ace is doubleton. The defense takes the ace and lead another heart. I make my contract, but I can make five if I knock out the diamond ace right away.

Even if the diamond ace is third, taking the finesse could be wrong. I take the heart finesse. It wins. I play the jack of diamonds. It holds. Now I switch to spades and take nine tricks. If he spade ace was on my right, I did well. But if it was on my left, I again made three when I could have made five.

There is fair chance that continuing diamonds will work. The ace could be doubleton. Or the suit could break favorably (three-two or ace-ten fourth on my left) with the spade ace onside. A priori, that adds up to a little more than 50%. It's well over 50% if we consider the fact that neither defender echoed in diamonds. Is it really right to take the heart finesse and give up my best chance for overtricks to guard against something that is less than even money to happen?

Take a look at the first paragraph of my analysis. ("If the opponents can hold up twice in diamonds...") As Barry Crane has said, "IMPs is for pessimists; matchpoints is for optimists." That first paragraph betrays a pessimistic, IMP style of thinking. If Crane were writing this blog, his first sentence would have been more along the lines of, "I'm starting with ten tricks if I can run the diamonds."

Sunday, January 8, 2023

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - January 6 - Board 4

Board 4
Both vulnerable

♠ A 8  ♥ A 6 5 2  ♦ K 10 8 7  ♣ Q 7 3  

LHO deals and passes. Partner passes, and RHO opens with one diamond. I have an opening bid, but I don't have support for the unbid suits, so I can't double. Besides, they've bid my best suit. When that happens, it's usually right to pass.

I pass, LHO responds one spade, partner passes, and RHO bids one notrump. Again I have no reason to bid. I pass.

LHO corrects to two diamonds, which is passed around to me. Partner has at most one diamond and passed up two opportunities to enter the auction, so he doesn't have much. While I don't in general like to defend at the two level when the opponents have found a fit, I have no reason to believe we can make anything, and we have good chances to beat two diamonds. So I pass once again.

It's not clear what to lead. I'd like to lead declarer's shortness to start an assault on his trump suit. But I don't know what his shortness is. Any of the three side suits could be right. And any is dangerous. I choose a club simply on the principle that's it's usually wrong to lead from an ace. But I have no confidence it's right. Clubs could easily be declarer's best suit.


NORTH
Robot
♠ K 9 6 4
♥ Q 10
♦ Q 9 5 4
♣ 8 6 5


WEST
Phillip
♠ A 8
♥ A 6 5 2
♦ K 10 8 7
♣ Q 7 3






West North East South
Phillip Robot Robot Robot

Pass Pass 1 ♦
Pass 1 ♠ Pass 1 NT
Pass 2 ♦ (All pass)

Dummy and I have 20 HCP combined, leaving 20 for the unseen hands. Declarer has 12 to 14, so that leaves partner with six to eight HCP. Let's hope some of them are in clubs.

Some of them--in fact, most of them--are. Partner takes the club ace, declarer following with the four, and returns the jack. Declarer plays the king.

I'd like to unblock. Could partner be returning the jack without the ten? Might he have ace-jack third? It seems unlikely that he would he be selling to two diamonds with nine cards in the majors. And if declarer loses control, I certainly don't want clubs to be blocked. So I play the queen.

What do I expect declarer to do now? If he has a doubleton spade, he will probably lead a spade, preparing to ruff spades in his hand. If he doesn't play a spade, it's likely he has three.

He doesn't. He plays a heart, presumably trying to reach dummy to take a trump finesse. If he wins in dummy and plays a diamond to the jack, it's probably right to duck. If I win, I have nothing useful to do, and declarer will have an easy time. If I duck and declarer then cashes the trump ace, he will be in trouble. I will be able to draw his trump when I get in.

I play a low heart. Declarer plays the ten, and partner wins with the king. I wasn't expecting that. That's partner's last high-card point. Declarer has everything else.We have five tricks in top cards. We need one more to beat this.

I expect partner to play a club, but he shifts to the three of diamonds and declarer plays the deuce. Surely partner would have tried to cash a club if it were possible one was cashing. That must mean he started with five, making declarer 3-4-4-2. 

I don't care for this diamond shift. Ducking is unlikely to be effective now what declarer knows I have the diamond king. Still, I don't see how ducking can hurt. If I win the diamond and play a club and declarer ruffs, the defense can never score more than my two aces. And if declarer has another club, our club trick isn't going anywhere. I can always cash it when I win the heart ace.

I play the diamond seven. Declarer wins in dummy with the nine and, to my surprise, plays another diamond. Partner discards the club deuce, and declarer takes his ace. Declarer now leads the spade queen. I take the ace, reaching this position:


NORTH
Robot
♠ K 9 6
♥ Q
♦ Q 4
♣ 5


WEST
Phillip
♠ 8
♥ A 5 2
♦ K 10
♣ 7


If I draw trumps, declarer can't afford to drive my heart ace. He must cash however many spades he can, leaving the rest for us. If he has queen-jack-ten of spades, we'll take the last two tricks for down one. If partner has the spade ten, we'll take the last three tricks for down two.

I play king and a diamond. Partner pitches the eight and three of hearts. That suggests he has the spade suit stopped. Indeed he does. Declarer cashes two spades, and we have the rest. Down two.


NORTH
Robot
♠ K 9 6 4
♥ Q 10
♦ Q 9 5 4
♣ 8 6 5


WEST
Phillip
♠ A 8
♥ A 6 5 2
♦ K 10 8 7
♣ Q 7 3


EAST
Robot
♠ 10 7 3 2
♥ K 8 3
♦ 3
♣ A J 10 9 2


SOUTH
Robot
♠ Q J 5
♥ J 9 7 4
♦ A J 6 2
♣ K 4

Plus 200 is worth 96%. Five of the ten declarers in two diamonds made their contract. Only one other declarer was down two.

A more astute declarer might have made this by not playing a second round of trumps. I gave him the contract when I ducked my heart ace. If I hop and play ace and a spade, I can get a spade ruff when I'm in with the diamond king. Once I ducked, we could no longer beat this by force.

Should I have hopped with the heart ace? It's not clear. I had no particular reason to think partner had the heart king, but playing him for that card is an easy way to beat this. And, while my plan of ducking when declarer plays a diamond to jack seemed like a strong defense, I didn't have a clear route to six tricks in mind. I was just playing on general principles.

Playing for a layout where you can see a sure beat is often better than playing on general principles and hoping something good happens. Still, hopping and going after a spade ruff is playing for a very specific layout. I'm not sure what the best defense was.

Sunday, January 1, 2023

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - December 30 - Board 3

Board 3
Opponents vulnerable

♠ K Q 7 2  ♥ K Q 8 2  ♦ Q 10  ♣ Q J 3  

I have 15 HCP. Before bridge players started counting points, no one would consider opening a strong notrump with this hand. It has two and half honor tricks, and a strong notrump contains three and half to four. For a while I experimenting with avoiding one-notrump openings with hands like this one. It didn't work out well. But not for the reason you might expect. Opening with one of a minor let the opponents get into the auction too easily. I was losing boards not because I was missing games but because I lost the pre-emptive effect of a one-notrump opening. Paradoxically, it was precisely because my hand wasn't actually worth one notrump (at least not defensively) that it was important to open one notrump anyway and keep the opponents out of the auction.

Having learned my lesson, I upgrade and open with one notrump. Everyone passes. See? I silenced the opponents.


NORTH
Robot
♠ 9 8 4
♥ A 7
♦ 9 8 6
♣ A 10 9 8 5






SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K Q 7 2
♥ K Q 8 2
♦ Q 10
♣ Q J 3


West North East South
Robot Robot Robot Phillip



1 NT
(All pass)


West leads the spade five. The three is out, so this could be from length or from shortness.

The opponents can take the spade ace and some number of diamonds. If the club king is offside, I need to hope that number is four, else I'm going down.

I play the spade nine from dummy, starting an unblock, since I may want to finesse the seven at some point. I'm not too concerned this will reveal I have good spades. My play could easily be a ruse.

East takes the ace and shifts to the heart jack. The robots never seem to return their partner's suit. And, since their partners seldom lead their best suit, who can blame them? Fortunately, East didn't pick the right suit to shift to. What's the best way to keep him from shifting to diamonds if the club finesse loses?

I could win in dummy, concealing the fact that I have the heart king, then lead a spade to my hand for the club finesse. I'm not sure I care for that line, however. Not only does it give the show away that I have good spades, but it may strip RHO of his last spade, preventing him from shifting back to that suit. Perhaps it's better to win in my hand with the heart king. If West thinks his partner has the queen, he might continue hearts. And the option of returning his partner's suit is still open to him. Winning with the heart king gives him two ways to go wrong instead of one.

I play the heart king, and West plays the nine. I play the club queen--six--five--king. East shifts to the diamond deuce. Oh, well. He found it.

Is the diamond queen or ten more likely to get West to shift to a different suit after winning the diamond? If West doesn't have the jack, the ten is probably better. If he wins with the king, he may think I have ace-jack-ten; if he wins with the ace, he may think I have king-jack ten. Either way there is no future in the suit. If West does have the jack, the queen may work better. If he has ace-jack, for example, he may think I have king-queen-ten and be afraid to return the suit.

I don't have much to go on. It seems like pretty much of a toss-up. But there is one consideration that tips the scales. East may have both the ace and king. Is that possible? This is a best-hand tournament, so he is limited to 15 HCP. Ace of spades, jack of hearts, king of clubs. That's eight HCP. Yes, there is room for the ace-king of diamonds.

I go up with the queen. West plays three. Wow! Did I make the right play for the right reason? Did East really underlead the ace-king?

I have four clubs, three hearts, two spades, and a diamond. Ten tricks. I've lost two, so I have only one loser left. Do I have a squeeze? Since West presumably has the diamond jack, the only possible squeeze is a heart-spade squeeze against East. But it doesn't hurt to play it as a double squeeze anyway in case  I've misread the position. The double threat must be spades, since it's the only suit with an entry

I play a heart to the ace, a club to my jack, and cash the heart queen. West pitches the five of diamonds. I could cash a spade without destroying the squeeze matrix. But there is no reason to. Better to conceal my spade strength.

I play a club to dummy. West pitches the four of diamonds. I've reached this position:


NORTH
Robot
♠ 8 4
♥ --
♦ 9
♣ 8 5






SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K Q 7
♥ 8
♦ 10
♣ --


On the penultimate club, East pitches the diamond three. I have no use for the diamond ten. Dummy's nine works as the diamond threat, so I pitch my diamond. West pitches the spade six. I have now reached the classic double-squeeze position. East holds the heart guard. If West holds the diamond guard, neither opponent can hold spades. Of course, that's not possible. West can hardly hold ace-king-jack of diamonds.

I cash the last club. East pitches the diamond seven. Presumably he has ace-king of diamonds and the heart ten left, leaving West with the diamond jack and three spades. I pitch the heart eight, and West pitches the diamond jack. To my surprise, both opponents follow when I lead a spade from dummy, so my hand is good. Making five.


NORTH
Robot
♠ 9 8 4
♥ A 7
♦ 9 8 6
♣ A 10 9 8 5


WEST
Robot
♠ J 10 6 5
♥ 9 4
♦ A J 5 4 3
♣ 6 4


EAST
Robot
♠ A 3
♥ J 10 6 5 3
♦ K 7 2
♣ K 7 2


SOUTH
Phillip
♠ K Q 7 2
♥ K Q 8 2
♦ Q 10
♣ Q J 3

Plus 210 is worth 93%.

So West had ace-jack of diamonds and ducked the queen! He thought I had king-queen third and he was hoping his partner had an entry? What entry would that be? I suppose East might have held the club jack. East's diamond deuce was no help, because the robots sometimes lead low from small doubletons.

In the end position, West was still playing me for the diamond king, so he held the wrong suit. East couldn't afford the informative pitch of the diamond king, else West really would be squeezed.

Most declarers who reached the same position I did at trick four chose the diamond ten rather than the queen. West still misread the position. He took the jack and shifted. So either play sufficed to dissuade West from returning the suit. But the queen had the additional merit of winning the trick. There was no way to make five after the ten lost to the jack.

Sunday, December 25, 2022

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - December 23 - Board 2

Board 2
Our side vulnerable

♠ A 9 4 3 2  ♥ Q 3  ♦ 10 3  ♣ A J 5 3  

RHO opens with two hearts. One generally needs at least an opening bid to overcall a weak two-bid. While some would consider this hand an opening bid, it certainly doesn't qualify once you devalue the heart queen. It could be right to overcall anyway. I have the spade suit and heart shortness, both of which argue for being aggressive. But it still feels too thin for me, especially at this vulnerability. At matchpoints, the vulnerable game bonus doesn't compensate for the danger of going minus 200.

I pass, LHO passes, and partner balances with two spades.

Despite my five-card support, this hand, with eight losers, is worth only a strong invitation. In a competitive auction, it's OK to overbid with a ten-card fit, since, if you go down, it is likely the opponents could make something. But on this deal the opponents have shown no interest in bidding past the two-level, so going down at the four level is unlikely to be a good result. I'll simply show my limit raise by bidding three hearts.

Over three hearts, partner bids four spades and buys it. RHO leads the diamond ace.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A 9 4 3 2
♥ Q 3
♦ 10 3
♣ A J 5 3






SOUTH
Robot
♠ K Q J 8 6
♥ K 7 5 4 2
♦ Q 5
♣ 6


West North East South
Robot Phillip Robot Robot
2 ♥ Pass Pass 2 ♠
Pass 3 ♥ Pass 4 ♠
(All pass)


If partner accepts an invitation with that hand, I was right only to invite. The five-card heart suit is a serious liability, since it gives him a lot of losers to dispose of. If I had only three-card spade support, he would need me to have quite a good hand to have any chance of making this. Even with four spades, I would need good trump spots to avoid overruffs. I would have settled for three spades with partner's hand.

I'm off three fast tricks and a heart ruff, so I can't make this against best defense. But the fact that East is void in hearts may prove fortunate. If West continues diamonds at trick two, East loses his ruff, since he doesn't have a stiff heart to shift to.

East foolishly encourages with the diamond nine. Which card is more likely to induce West to continue diamonds? The five or the queen? If I play the queen, West may worry I have a singleton. If I play the five, he can be fairly sure I have another diamond, since his partner, with king-queen-jack, would play the king rather than the nine if he wished to encourage. In addition, I need to make sure East wins the next diamond trick. If I play the queen, East may be able to underplay West's spot at trick two.

Accordingly, I play the five. West, sadly, ignores his partner's signal and shifts to the heart ace. East pitches the club four, gets his heart ruff, and cashes the diamond king. I take the rest for down one.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A 9 4 3 2
♥ Q 3
♦ 10 3
♣ A J 5 3


WEST
Robot
♠ 10 5
♥ A J 10 9 8 6
♦ A
♣ 10 9 8 7


EAST
Robot
♠ 7
♥ --
♦ K J 9 8 7 6 4 2
♣ K Q 4 2


SOUTH
Robot
♠ K Q J 8 6
♥ K 7 5 4 2
♦ Q 5
♣ 6

An eight-one diamond split! West had no diamond to continue, so I had no chance to make this. Obviously East should have discouraged at trick one, since, if his partner had the thirteenth diamond, East certainly didn't want him to play it. East signaled with blinders on, looking only at his diamond holding rather than at the entire hand. He was lucky not to be punished. 

Some might play the diamond jack at trick one as an alarm-clock signal to suggest a void somewhere. I don't think that's the right use of the alarm-clock signal. The alarm-clock doesn't necessarily suggest a void. It says, "I don't want a continuation. But if I discourage, you will shift to the wrong suit. Please lead the other one." In this case, the natural shift is to a heart, not to dummy's source of tricks. So "the other one" is clubs. Perhaps you have the king-queen of clubs and can see an endplay coming if you don't get a club shift.

Minus 100 is worth only 25%. Plus 140 would not have been much better, scoring 43%. To get a good board, I have to overcall with two spades. We make game from my side unless East leads a diamond, and the club king is his normal lead. Over half the field did overcall. It's possible my judgment is wrong and overcalling is the percentage action. But if so, this deal is not evidence of that fact. The reason the overcall worked was rather random, having nothing to do with the merits of the bid.

Sunday, December 18, 2022

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - December 16 (Beethoven's Birthday) - Board 1

Board 1
Neither vulnerable

♠ A K 10 8 7 2  ♥ K 7  ♦ A J  ♣ K J 5  

Partner opens with two hearts. The robots tend to have good suits for their weak two-bids, so it's likely partner has ace-queen sixth. We could have a slam if we have a spade fit, so I'll start with two spades to find out. If partner raises, I'll bid Blackwood. If he bids three hearts, I'll settle for four hearts or three notrump. I'm not sure which, but there's no reason to worry about that yet.

Over two spades, partner bids two notrump. Since we don't have a spade fit, I'll give up on slam. As far as which game to play, I was contemplating three notrump even before partner suggested it. So I'll accept his suggestion.

I bid three notrump. Everyone passes and RHO leads the three of diamonds.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K 10 8 7 2
♥ K 7
♦ A J
♣ K J 5






SOUTH
Robot
♠ 5
♥ A Q J 9 5 3
♦ K 10 8
♣ 10 8 4


West North East South
Robot Phillip Robot Robot



2 ♥
Pass 2 ♠ Pass 2 NT
Pass 3 NT (All pass)

That looks more like a one-heart opening to me. But it wasn't my decision to make.

Assuming hearts come home, I have eleven tricks after this lead. If I can take a club trick, I have twelve. Some pairs will be in four hearts, and it's not clear how many tricks they will take. If they can set up spades, they might make seven. But I can't beat that result, so it's not a concern. There may, however, be some plus 480s, which I can beat if I guess the clubs.

I play the diamond jack from dummy. East covers with the queen and I win with the king. The diamond deuce is still out.

I can't run hearts before guessing clubs, since I would have to cash my diamonds as well, setting up diamonds tricks for them. And it's not clear that would give me any useful information anyway. I might as well play clubs now. Perhaps I can exploit the robots' tendency to cover an honor with an honor anytime it might gain. If I lead the club ten, will West cover with the queen? If he knew I had the diamond ten, he might not, since he would know a second club trick is of no use to me. But with the information he has, not covering may cost a trick. So I'm fairly sure he will cover.

I lead the club ten. West plays the six, so I go up with the king. No luck. East takes the ace. I assume it didn't matter. East presumably has the queen as well.

East shifts to the six of diamonds. West plays the five and I win in dummy. I still haven't seen the deuce.

Is there any chance to make six? I might have a black-suit squeeze against East. Unfortunately both the club jack and spade ten are in front of him. The only possible threat behind him is the club eight, so I would need to find East with the only spade guard and with queen-nine of clubs. If I hadn't led the ten, it would work as a threat, so I wouldn't need East to hold the nine. Too late now.

I cash the heart king, and East discards the spade four. Whoa! I'm down to four heart tricks. I have two spades and three diamonds, so I'm still making this. Is it possible to make an overtrick?

I have four hearts and three diamonds to cash and I've lost a club trick. So I'll be down to five cards in the end position. Dummy will have three spades and a doubleton club. Here's what the position will look like:


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K 10
♥ --
♦ --
♣ J 5






SOUTH
Robot
♠ 5
♥ 9 5
♦ --
♣ 8 4

If East has the only spade guard, he is in trouble. If he holds three spades and two clubs, I can endplay him in spades. If he stiffs the queen of clubs, I can duck it out. He may have a diamond to cash, but then I'll take the last three tricks. If he has a small diamond to lead to his partner, the endplay won't work. So I need to hope that's not the case. 

I need to guess his shape so I know if he stiffs the club queen. The robots give count on their first discard, so the spade four is either lowest from three or five or third best from four. It's hard to believe he doesn't have a more attractive discard than a spade from a four-card suit, so it's probably three or five. Given his heart void, it's more likely five. I still don't know how diamonds split. West could have three or four--conceivably even five, since the deuce is still missing.

On the next heart, East discards the diamond deuce. So I now know West began with three or four diamonds. On the next two hearts, East discards the club three, then the deuce. The robots don't always give accurate count after the first play in a suit, so I can't read too much into the echo. But I doubt he would stiff the club queen without knowing I have a third diamond winner. So my best guess is East is 5-0-3-5, which is good news, since that means he won't have a diamond exit in the end position. If my construction is correct, East has four spades and queen doubleton of clubs remaining.

I cash the diamond ten. West plays the nine; East, the seven. So my construction is wrong. East started with at least four diamonds. I can still endplay him if he's 4-0-4-5. But is that possible? I said earlier I didn't think he would pitch a spade from four, and I see no reason to change my mind. Most likely he's 3-0-5-5, probably with three small spades, since I doubt he would have pitched from honor third.

If that's the layout, I can't endplay East. Can I endplay West? West should be down to

♠ Q J 3  ♥10  ♦ --  ♣ x  

When I lead a spade, he will split, and I will take the ace. Now I can lead a low club from dummy. If West's club spot is the nine, I have him. If East hops with the queen, he gives me the club jack. If he ducks, West wins with the nine. He can cash the ten of hearts but must then lead a spade into dummy's king ten.

That seems like my best chance at this point. I play a spade. Will I have the courage of my convictions and play the ten if West plays low? West doesn't put me to the test. He inserts the jack. I take the ace and lead a low club. Unfortunately, it is East who wins with the nine. He has a club and a diamond to cash. I take the spade king at the end. Making three.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K 10 8 7 2
♥ K 7
♦ A J
♣ K J 5


WEST
Robot
♠ Q J 3
♥ 10 8 6 4 2
♦ 9 5 3
♣ 7 6


EAST
Robot
♠ 9 6 4
♥ --
♦ Q 7 6 4 2
♣ A Q 9 3 2


SOUTH
Robot
♠ 5
♥ A Q J 9 5 3
♦ K 10 8
♣ 10 8 4

Almost the entire field is in four hearts, which I find surprising. I expected some pairs to play four hearts, but this seemed like a pretty routine auction. (At least from my side of the table. And we are all playing with the same partner.) 

Four hearts made four, so plus 400 is worth 11%. Had I led a small club at trick two instead of the ten, I would have scored 430 for 100%. Little did I know I had won the whole board in the auction.

Did I make a mistake? I don't think so. Against these opponents, the club ten gives me a 75% chance to take a club trick instead of a 50% chance. The only time it costs is when both club honors are offside and hearts are five-zero offside. It's wrong to forgo the vig in leading the club ten for fear of a layout as unlikely as this one.

Sunday, December 11, 2022

Free Weekly Instant Tournament - December 9 - Board 8

Board 8
Neither vulnerable

I started this week's tournament with a zero, going down in a marginal slam that no one else reached. But I've managed to pull my score up to 74% going into the final board:

♠ A K J 7  ♥ Q 9 7 5  ♦ A 3  ♣ A 6 3  

Three passes to me. With 18 HCP and a balanced hand, I have a routine two-notrump rebid. I start with one club. Partner responds with one heart. My heart queen has gone up in value, so I can re-evaluate this hand as a game force. I bid four hearts and partner passes. RHO leads the diamond five.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K J 7
♥ Q 9 7 5
♦ A 3
♣ A 6 3






SOUTH
Robot
♠ 6 5
♥ J 10 8 2
♦ K J 10
♣ K Q 10 4


West North East South
Robot Phillip Robot Robot


Pass Pass
Pass 1 ♣ Pass 1 ♥
Pass 4 ♥ (All pass)

The diamond five isn't very informative. It could be from shortness or length. Since the four and deuce are missing, it could even be from a six-card suit. 

While the lead isn't informative, it at least picks up the diamond queen for me. I have ten tricks after knocking out the top hearts. If trumps are three-two, I can score an eleventh trick via a ruff. A ruff may be problematic if trumps are four-one.

Sometimes one can cater to a bad trump break by taking a ruff early. Does that work here? Let's say I play ace, king, and ruff a spade now. Already there are problems with this line. Someone may ruff the second spade, or someone may pitch a club on the third spade, setting up an eventual club ruff.

And those aren't my only problems. After I ruff a spade, say I lead a heart and it holds. Now what? I've exposed a spade loser. So if I play another trump, the defense may be able to draw dummy's trumps and cash a spade. To prevent that, I have to ruff my last spade, giving the opponents another chance to pitch a club and set up a club ruff.

It might be worth taking the risk of an early spade ruff if not for the fact that I have other chances for an eleventh trick. The clubs may come home, I may have a black-suit squeeze, or I may take a spade finesse. Given I have those other chances in reserve, I'll forgo the early ruff.

I play a low diamond from dummy. East plays the queen, and I win with the king. I want to keep all high trumps in dummy in case I do decide to ruff a spade and draw trumps. So I lead the heart jack--three--five--king. East shifts to the club deuce. I could insert the ten, which would be my eleventh trick if it held. But a shift from the jack into dummy's ace third is unattractive. It's more likely West has jack doubleton and inserting the ten would give up my chance to drop it. I can always finesse East for the jack later if I change my mind. So I go up with the king, retaining a club entry to each hand.

I play the heart deuce and West discards the three of spades. I play the seven, and East underplays with the six. So the four-one trump break I was worried about transpired. Should I ruff a spade now? Say I play ace and king of spades (hoping they both cash) and ruff a spade. If East shows out on the third spade, I'm home. I just lead the ten of hearts to the queen. Whether East wins or ducks, nothing bad can happen.

What if East follows to the third spade? Then I'm down to this position:


NORTH
Phillip
♠ J
♥ Q 9
♦ A
♣ A 6






SOUTH
Robot
♠ --
♥ 10
♦ J 10
♣ Q 10 4

If the spade jack isn't high, I have to ruff it. Can I do that safely? Diamond to the ace. Club ace (hoping it cashes), to guard against East's pitching his last club as I ruff the spade. Now I take my ruff. East is down to two trumps and one minor-suit card. I have to guess which minor suit and cash the right winner. Then my only loser is the trump ace.

There are too many ways that line can fail. It seems better just to drive the trump ace now and hope I can score an eleventh trick in the black suits. We're back to this position:


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K J 7
♥ Q 9
♦ A
♣ A 6






SOUTH
Robot
♠ 6 5
♥ 10 8
♦ J 10
♣ Q 10 4

I lead the heart nine. East takes the ace as West discards the seven of diamonds. I haven't seen the four or deuce, so I'm still not sure how diamonds are splitting.

East plays his last trump, and West discards the club nine. Unless West began with five clubs, my clubs are now good. If he did, I have to hope the spade queen drops or West is squeezed.

I win with the heart queen and cash the club ace. East follows, so I claim.


NORTH
Phillip
♠ A K J 7
♥ Q 9 7 5
♦ A 3
♣ A 6 3


WEST
Robot
♠ Q 10 9 4 3
♥ 3
♦ 9 8 7 5
♣ J 9 5


EAST
Robot
♠ 8 2
♥ A K 6 4
♦ Q 6 4 2
♣ 8 7 2


SOUTH
Robot
♠ 6 5
♥ J 10 8 2
♦ K J 10
♣ K Q 10 4

Plus 450 is worth 61%. The only person to do better opened with one notrump then refused to show a four-card major over Stayman. He reached three notrump, making five.

I don't know why people think you have to do bizarre things to win. I averaged 72% doing nothing more than trying to take the percentage action at every turn. And if I had actually succeeded in taking the percentage action at every turn, I would have done better. Surely that's a more promising approach--and more rewarding even if you don't end up winning.